GREENHOUSE FOR PEPPER DO IT YOURSELF: PHOTO, ALL ABOUT GROWING PEPPER IN A GREENHOUSE

All peppers: hot and semi-sharp, sweet and bitter - heat-loving.

therefore the best way getting a rich harvest is a method growing them in a greenhouse.

Planting in the greenhouse is possible in earlier periods, and the cleaning of pepper in closed ground can be postponed until a substantial cooling.

Greenhouse do it yourself

A small greenhouse for pepper, which opens as much as possible in warm weather, is the best way to grow. Large greenhouses for this vegetable are less successful, since pepper is a light-loving culture, and in the greenhouse the access of light is still somewhat limited.

In addition, the number of planted bushes most often is not very large, which means that in the greenhouse you will have to plant peppers together with other cultures, and this is not desirable, because this crop requires the creation of special climatic conditions.

All this suggests that it is better for pepper to make a small greenhouse, using materials that are affordable and affordable for any vegetable grower.
It is rather simple to make a greenhouse for pepper by yourself and we offer you some simple options with a photo:
1. Greenhouse on the foundation.

For such a structure, a row of bricks fastened with a cement mixture is laid at a selected place around the perimeter. A greenhouse should be constructed at the maximum open area to allow sunlight to reach the plants. The orientation of the greenhouse is chosen east-west, and the design should open on the south side.

For the construction of the walls of the greenhouse, you can use timber or old boards. A peculiar rectangular box is built from this material on the foundation. The top of the building is covered with an old frame or a frame of battens covered with a film. To make it easier to open or open the greenhouse, the roof should be fixed to the hinges.

The roof of the greenhouse is single or dual gable. When constructing a shed roof, one edge of the box is 20-25 centimeters higher. The height of the box should not exceed 40-50 centimeters, otherwise the plants will lack light.

2. Tunnel arc-shaped greenhouse.

This type of structure is portable. It is made of metal wire or polypropylene pipes, bent in an arc and stuck into the ground or fixed on a wooden frame. The distance between the arcs is 50-60 centimeters. The width is calculated so that a maximum of four rows of peppers fit inside.

The frame is covered on top with a polyethylene film or a covering material of medium or high density. Bottom cover is fixed by any heavy objects. You can nail the slats along the edge, which, when opened, will roll the covering material. Arcs between themselves can be fixed with wire or slats made of wood, this will increase the strength of the structure.

3. Greenhouse on the basis of the frame.

This type of shelter for pepper is a designer of rack frames covered with foil. The frames are fixed on the base of the timber or boards. You can make the construction in the form of a house or in the form of a rectangular box covered with a frame on top.

Instead of film, you can use sheets of polycarbonate. In this case, the strength and durability of the greenhouse will increase significantly, although its value will increase.

You can see other greenhouses that you can also collect or do by hand here: From arcs, From polycarbonate, From window frames, For seedlings, From shaped tube, From plastic bottles, For cucumbers, Under film, To the cottage, From PVC, Winter greenhouse , Beautiful cottage, Good harvest, Snowdrop, Snail, Dayas

Variety selection

Not all varieties of pepper are suitable for growing in a greenhouse or greenhouse. For cultivation in greenhouse conditions, select low and medium varieties. The most popular greenhouse pepper varieties are:

Negotsiant.
Pinocchio.
Tibul.
Centurion.
Barin
Barguzin.
Bagration
Chord.
Cornet.

All these varieties are resistant to the most common disease of pepper - top rot. They start fruiting quickly and have time to ripen on the bushes in conditions of unheated greenhouses and greenhouses.

Seedling preparation

Pepper is the culture with the longest growing season, therefore he is sown before all culturesgrown by rassadnym way. Recommended sowing time - end of february

Pepper root system is very fragile, so it does not like frequent transplantation. Experienced gardeners recommend sowing pepper in separate containers.

Glasses without bottom are placed in a box or on a pallet and filled with a mixture of soil and sand or peat (2: 1). You can use ready-made soil mixture for peppers from the store.

Seeds are pretreated with a solution of potassium permanganate, then a growth stimulator.

Capacities with crops cover with a transparent material and put in a warm and bright place. When the peppers grow to 15-20 cm, they should be pinned.. This technique stimulates the growth of lateral shoots to form a lush bush. A large number of shoots will increase the number of fruits in one bush.

Seedlings recommended several times to feed. The first top dressing is carried out in the phase of three leaves, the second - 4-5 leaflets. Pepper should receive the largest amount of fertilizer when the bush forms 8–9 leaves, since the budding of flower buds begins from that time.

An important step in growing seedlings is hardening. Capacities with sprouts are taken out on the balcony for the day, at night they must be transferred to heat. Also, pepper must be taught to sunlight, from time to time placing it on the street in a shady place. Peppers not prepared in this way will be sore when disembarking a greenhouse, since it will be difficult for them to get used to the abrupt change of the microclimate.

TIP! Improve the resistance of plants will help their treatment with the drug "Epin", which improves the immunity of plants.

We plant correctly

When forming on bushes 12-13 true leaves is coming planting time in the greenhouse. During this period, buds start to tie up on the peppers, the root system is fully formed and ready for cultivation in the greenhouse.

To avoid the excessive stress of plants during transplantation, approximately one week before disembarking boxes with plants appropriate put in a greenhouse. At night they are necessarily closed, and during the day, depending on the air temperature, they open up partially or completely.

Planting in a greenhouse can be carried out when the earth warms up to 15-16 degrees. In unheated greenhouses, this does not occur until mid-May.

Before planting, the soil in the greenhouse is specially prepared. Make a compost or humus, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

IMPORTANT! Do not add fresh manure to the pepper; this will cause the ovaries to fall off and there will be no fruit on the pepper.

For planting pepper width the beds are optimal within 1 meter, row spacing - 50 cm. Low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 20 cm from each other, sredneroslye - 25-30cm, high - 35-40 cm. Plants are planted in holes, well spilled with warm water.

How to correctly and quickly plant the pepper seedlings in the greenhouse you can see in this video:

ATTENTION! Do not bury the stem of the pepper above the level at which they were in the cups. After planting, the ground should be crushed, watered and mulched.

All about growing peppers in a greenhouse

High temperature and humidity - the main conditions for the successful cultivation of pepper.

That is why growing it in film shelters is the most acceptable, since it is possible to create such conditions in them.

To achieve success, do the following:

Properly water the plants. Watering should be abundant, always warm water. Do not allow drying, and especially cracking the soil under the pepper.
Time to air. In hot weather, the greenhouse should be opened as much as possible, as the pepper does not tolerate too high a temperature.
Shape the bushes. For the best lighting of bushes, pepper must be cut, leaving 2-3 strongest stems. But there are varieties (Barguzin, Buratino) that do not need pruning. In addition to the formative pruning, it is necessary to remove the bottommost flower bud, as well as all the shoots that do not have flowers.
Feed regularly. About once a month, watering should be combined with fertilizing organic or mineral fertilizer. But organic fertilizer can be applied only once for the entire period and in low concentration. An excess of nitrogen will lead to an increase in leaf mass, and the fruits will not be tied.
Shade from the sun. Pepper is a lover of the sun, but not burning or scorching, so on particularly hot days it is worth to tint. Otherwise, the leaves turn white, and the flowers may fall.
Handle pests. To prevent the occurrence of harmful insects can be treated with insecticides (Karbofos, Aktellik, etc.). Destroy ants in greenhouses in time, because they carry aphids - a pest dangerous to pepper.
Protect from disease. It is necessary to closely monitor changes that begin on plants. If you notice any spots on the leaves or fruits, leaf curling, bush lethargy, it means that the pepper has become infected with a disease. First, treat the bushes with Phytosporin and feed them. Severely affected specimens should be removed immediately.
Keep away from wind and drafts. Especially dangerous is the opening of the two ends in the tunnel covers. Pepper with this airing is a draft, and it harms him.
Loosen the soil. The roots need access to air, so loosening should be carried out after each watering. Just do not loosen the earth deeper than 5 cm - there is a risk of damaging the delicate roots.

The secrets of a rich harvest

When growing peppers, some features of this crop should be taken into account in order to get the desired result:

Never water the pepper from above, as this is a self-pollinated crop and in this way you wash away the pollen, which means you reduce the number of ovaries;
During active flowering with a stick, shake the bushes to increase the abscission and the setting of flowers;
Do not plant near bitter and sweet varieties. Shrubs can pereopylyatsya, and all your pepper as a result will be bitter.

In early August, pinch the tops of the bushes and remove all the buds on which the ovaries did not form.