Kishmish is a collective name for a huge number of different grape varieties, distinguished by their small size and sweet taste of berries, as well as the absence of seeds in them. This point must be taken into account when choosing grape raisin for planting in their area, since the agronomist cultivating the raisin grapes, the taste qualities of its berries and the characteristics of caring for the plant can vary greatly depending on the particular variety.
Description and biological features
The grapes of kishmish were cultivated as a result of the long and painstaking work of the breeders, whose main goal was to obtain a high-quality culture that could grow and develop normally in conditions of insufficient heat in the summer and severe frosts in the winter. 
To solve the wintering problem of heat-loving grapes, as is well known to specialists, dropping technology is commonly used, and therefore, breeders were faced with the task of bringing the plant with the most flexible vine that would not break when pressed to the ground.
Did you know? A curious legend is connected with the origin of the name of these varieties of wine berries: allegedly the word “kishmish” was formed from two words “shoo, mouse!”: Since the very sweet berries of this grape are happy to eat the mice, the Central Asian wine-growers tried to ward these small rodents away from the vine with corresponding exclamations, but instead of the harvest, only mouse droppings were often found on the plantation - as small as raisins. Actually, “Kish Mish” in Arabic means “dried grapes” or, in our opinion, raisins, which, as we know, are made from raisins.A few words should be said about the presence of pits in a raisin grape. The statement that there are no stones in these varieties is, in fact, not entirely true.
Important! There are four groups grapes, and if the first two bones are either completely absent, or they are very small and almost not felt when the berries are biting, then the third and fourth varieties of this grape have quite tangible seeds. Therefore, if you want to plant just a seedless grape, ask the seller what category of raisins the chosen variety belongs to.Breeding work on the breeding of new varieties of raisins is constantly ongoing, however, unfortunately, most of the newly created varieties just belong to the third and fourth group, which are in minimal demand and certainly can not be considered high-grade.
Did you know? "Bone" grapes depends not only on the variety, but also on weather conditions: the bones are harder, the hotter it was when the berries ripened.
Most popular varieties
Choose a variety of raisins can, guided different criteria - frost resistance, productivity, bones, tastes, color, ripening period, etc. 
Thus, such varieties as the raisin Gold, Romulus, Korinka Russian, Perlett, Tairovsky pink belong to the groups of boneless raisins mentioned above.
Large and hard bones you will find in the grapes of raisins Moldavian, Zaporozhye, Radiant, Rusball, hybrid form 311 and many others.
Please yourself and your family with such grape varieties as "Gala", "Annie", "Novocherkassk Anniversary", "Talisman", "Transformation", "Veles", "Laura", "Timur", "Arcadia", "Kodryanka" "," Libya "," Cardinal "," Rizamat "," Monarch "," Ruslan "," Original "," Sphinx "," Augustine "," Harold "," Valentine "," Lily of the Valley "," Helios ", "Halachi", "Victoria", "Chameleon", "Delight", "Rochefort", "Lancelot", "Blagovest", "Zabava", "Sofia", "Lydia", "In Memory of the Negrul", "Amursky", " Sensation "," Ataman "," Pretty Woman "," Kesha "," Moldova "and" Aleshenkin ".On the other hand, the same Romulus, being a great raw material for making raisins, has unpleasant quality - its berries are very easy to crumble, leaving the grower without the desired harvest, while the mentioned kishmish Radiant keeps perfectly on the bush.
Kishmish Zaporozhye is unpretentious, almost not afraid of wasps and has such a high yield that individual clusters must be promptly removed in order to avoid overloading the vine. 
High-yielding varieties also include Rusbol and Zosya, although the latter is characterized by low frost resistance, as well as general capriciousness and susceptibility to various diseases.
The most unpretentious usually include isabelnye grape varieties, for example, Rilaines Pink Sidlis or Ainsens Sidlis and others.
These raisers are well suited for beginners, because, unlike more high-grade hybrids, they can forgive the owner for mistakes in grooming, pruning and other farming practices.
Grape raisin happens different colors - black, white, red.
Did you know? The greatest amount of nutrients - vitamins and microelements - is contained in black grapes, and this rule applies not only to the raisins, but also to any other varieties of wine berries.
How to choose grapes when buying
There are several universal rules for the purchase of any plant material. 
The first - it is very desirable to buy goods in a proven place: ideally, from a familiar farmer (who at the same time will give you all the necessary recommendations and answer all questions) or at least in a proven store (preferably specialized, not in a supermarket), or on the Internet site.
Another good tip - bring along a specialist who will make the choice for you and save you from the wrong purchase.
If you have to make your own choice, use the following tips:
- No need to buy seedlings with dried roots (if the grandmother stands on the road under the open sun and sells dug vine - drive past confidentlysuch a grape you are unlikely to be able to reanimate).
- If you are going to plant grapes in the fall, Do not buy seedlings with leaves: When digging a sapling, the leaves need to be cut, otherwise the bush dries out quickly and then may not settle down.
- Purchase seedlings need only in season: if in the whole market you see only one seller who "raised" the goods for planting before everyone else, think about what methods he used to make the vine look shaped. In addition, a sapling should be stored for a long time before it is time to plant it in the ground - this is also a big risk that the grapes then will not take root. Buy on time and land immediately!
- Ask the seller to cut the "head" of the seedling a few millimeters or gently scrape off a small portion of the bark to make sure that the vine is alive (in the cut, the seedling should have a green and slightly moist pulp). Also need check roots sapling, cutting off a small tip and carefully inspecting the cut - at the living root it is light and moist, like a potato cut in half, for the dead it is dry and dark.
- Neatly bend the vine: dry will break (slight crackling when bending is normal). Lightly press down on the seedling with your finger - they should not break off.
- Check whether the seedling has grafted on: take it with one hand above the vaccine, lower it with the other, and gently twist it as if you want to squeeze the laundry. The accretion must be absolute - no cod, no gaps in the vaccination site should arise.
Did you know? If the seller does not like the manipulations you are conducting, suggest him to carry them out independently. But, having received a refusal, without hesitation, refuse to buy: grapes are enough capricious plant, and to settle down, the seedling must be of impeccable quality!
- The graft should be about 0.5 cm thick and at least five bright brown buds. Well inspect the seedling for the absence of any mechanical damage, traces of mold, stains and incomprehensible thickenings (both on the graft and on the stock).
- The place of vaccination, however, should be viewed: if you don’t see it yourself, don’t take the word for the seller - you are offered an unvaccinated seedling. The thickness of the rootstock and the scion should differ markedly, in addition, the unvaccinated seedling usually has a more powerful root system than the grafted one.
Important! Compliance with all the above rules ensures that you do not buy a bad sapling, but does not mean that you buy a good one: sellers are very skillful at giving out low-quality goods as high-class, and neither the high price nor the external freshness of the seedling will save you from fake. Therefore, the main rule for buying a good seedling is to contact a trusted supplier.
Planting rules for young seedlings
The grapes of kishmish, depending on the variety, may be more or less capricious, but in general, planting and caring for any variety requires adhering to the same rules. 
Optimal time
Vine, like trees, can be planted in spring or autumn. Each method has its supporters.
Of course, the autumn planting is good because there is a minimum amount of time between the time of digging up the sapling and the time of planting, because as the sapling survives long-term storage during the winter, it is not known, the risk of death here is quite large.
On the other hand, if the winter turns out to be too harsh, there is a high probability that a poorly-grown and not fully rooted seedling may not withstand frost and die. 
Some winegrowers, buying on occasion some very rare variety of vines in the period when the earth has already begun to freeze, manage to plant grapes even in winter, choosing an especially warm day with a positive temperature, so as not to expose the seedling to the risk of long storage and subsequent unpredictable planting result.
If you prefer spring planting, wait for sustained warmth and the final care of night frosts. Optimal time - from April 20 to May 20.
In the fall, planting is carried out in October or even later, but before the frost, of course, you need to catch it. So that the seedling does not freeze, you can cover it with a plastic bottle or stick it with pine feet or peat.
Choosing a place
Fig loves warmth and a large amount of light, so if there is no such place on your site, it is better to choose another culture for cultivation. 
You also can not plant grapes in the immediate vicinity of the house and other structures from the west or east, because during this or that part of the day in this case the shade will fall on the vine, and the berries will not ripen as expected.
Trees - bad neighbors for grapes: besides unnecessary shade, they hinder the development of the root system of the vine, suppressing it with its roots.
Did you know? If you plant grapes on the south side of the capital structure or wall, the vine will be protected from the north wind and, in addition, will receive additional heat from the heating surface.The roots of the grapes are located at a great depth, therefore, choosing a place for planting, you must make sure that there is no high groundwater flowing in this place or make cuttings, otherwise the roots will rot, and the grapes may die.
You can not plant a vine near a cesspool or fire, as the grapes love clean soil. Also, this plant does not tolerate dust, so the landing of the road, too, need to try to protect.The perfect place for wine berry bushes - south slope (the southwest side of the hill will also do). The distance between seedlings should be at least two meters.
Stepwise landing process
We dig holes 0.7 m deep, 0.4 m wide, 0.8 m long (the long part of the pit must be located from north to south). 
At the bottom of each pit lay a layer of ash and superphosphate, then - the drainage layer (fine gravel, rubble, expanded clay, etc.).
Then we put the soil mixture in the hole: sand, humus and fertile land.
We install any pipe (for example, rubber) with a diameter of at least 5 cm and a length of about one meter on the south side of the pit (the end of the pipe should rise at least 5-10 cm above the ground level. We strengthen the pipe with gravel, sprinkle with earth and tamper well.
To the north of the pipe at the bottom of the pit we pour a small hillock of fertile land, in the center of which we place a seedling, slightly deviating it from the pipe to the south. Fall asleep hole.
Important! When planting a seedling, two buds should remain underground, the rest - from above. The top two eyes immediately after planting can be cut, it will accelerate the growth of the bush.Water the seedling. Watering the grapes with this technology will be carried out directly through the pipe, so moisture will easily reach the roots of the vine.
Rules for seasonal care of grape raisins
Proper planting of raisins is very important, but there is still a long way to grow the grapes before getting the first harvest.
Watering, loosening and soil mulching
Whatever type of raisin you choose, moisture he needs a lot, at least 30 liters of water for each bush per week, and the intervals between watering should not last more than four days.
A good way to reduce water consumption is drip irrigation, however, our proposed option of planting a bush with in-pipe pipes also protects the soil well from drying out.
Did you know? Grapes grown on sand require an average of one and a half times more water than those planted on black soil.During the harvest and for two or three weeks before the grapes are practically not watered, you only need a little sprinkle the soil around the bushes.
Important! You can not water the grapes on top of the leaves, the water pours only at the root!The ground around the bush should always be loose.
In order not to waste time on loosening, and at the same time save time on weeding, mulch is used, however it is very important to use proven and specially treated material for this purpose, since pest larvae can be found in hay or mowed grass.Fertilization
Fertilizers are best applied before flowering, approximately at the stage of formation of the first three young leaves. Do not overdo it with dressing, it can greatly slow down the growth of the vine, especially at its young age.
In the spring it is good to feed the grapevine with nitrogen fertilizer, a little later, use complex mineral fertilizers, potash and wood ash.
Preventive treatment for pests and diseases
As mentioned above, different grape varieties of raisins have different resistance to diseases and pests.
Accordingly, attention should be paid to this question differently, however, no matter what variety you plant, remember: many diseases (especially fungal) are difficult to diagnose and even harder to treat, while they can and should be prevented. 
Today, you can buy in the store specially selected complex preparations designed to protect grapes from most of the most dangerous diseases and pests, including wasps and ticks.
Important! Fungicides and insecticides should be alternated periodically so that insects and disease carriers do not acquire resistance to poison.In early spring, for the purposes of prophylaxis, the vine can be treated with iron sulfate (300 g per bucket of water). Further, as necessary, it is possible to carry out another two or three sprays, but after the blooming of the kidneys, the concentration of pesticides must be reduced.
Well grapes react to such drugs as "Actellic" or "Fufanon" (from ticks), "Topaz" or "Fundazol", "Confidor", "Quadris" or colloidal sulfur.Focus on those diseases and those harmful insects that are particularly annoying vineyards in your area. In any case, one month before harvest, all treatments should stop.
Literate pruning
The grapes for a good harvest is very important to properly pruned. 
The first pinching of the tops is carried out already three months after planting the seedling.
Next is the full formation of the bush. With the classic long pruning 8-12 holes are removed. An average of 10-12 vines should fall on a meter of height of a bush so that too many clusters do not overload the bushes.
Did you know? With insufficient pruning of grapes, there may be a lack of potassium, resulting in the berries decrease in size, poorly matured or cracked.Weakened shoots, too, must be removed, because they are dragging off vital resources and taking the forces needed by the vine, including in order to better survive the winter.
Preparing for the winter
The frost resistance of the grape raisin is generally not bad, but, as has been said more than once, it varies depending on the variety.
Some raisins, with proper care, can withstand a temperature drop to 30 degrees of frost, but on average, without taking proper measures, this type of grape is unlikely to survive the winter with frost more severe than -15 ° C. 
As for any perennial, for grapes the frost itself is not so terrible as the ice crust formed on roots and on the soil.
In short, the raisins for the winter you need to cover. Land, straw, coniferous paws, peat, foil, roofing felt and other material are suitable for this.
Important! You can not sprinkle grapes with spice or sawdust, it spoils the soil and, in addition, this material is easily damp and dries out badly.Carefully remove the rod from the supports, twist it into a bundle, lay it on the ground, attach it with pins (wire can be used). Then sprinkle the vine with a layer of ground 20-25 cm. On top, if desired, cover with straw or other material.
If the winters in your region are especially harsh, it is better to lay the vine in specially prepared grooves and only after that sprinkle it, so more guarantees that the frost will not damage the plant.
Important! Before the onset of cold weather, the ground must be very well moistened, since the frost penetrates much deeper into the dry soil and the vine may die!That's all. It will help you grow tasty and healthy grapes
In the spring, after the warm temperature is finally established, we will have to remove the shelter, and our grapes will thankfully dissolve the young leaves towards the long-awaited sun. 
